Hello,
when installing an alarm panel pro interface kit can I connect one of the relays of the interface modules to a zone of the old alarm system which monitors a motion sensor to simulate the activation of the motion sensor in order to trigger the alarm siren of the old alarm system instead of using a separate keyswich zone?
Thanks and kind regards
Alex
I guess you are asking this question because you dont have a spare zone and may have to move motion sensor or any other zone directly to Pro panel.
I a mnot an expert but I dont think you can connect relay to zone which is already used. I am saying this because after you connect the wires for Keyswitch, you also need to program the keyswitch in your existing control panel and then functionality of that zone changes from receiving signals from sensors to taking input for arming disarming. This is if you want to remotely control your system. So, I guess answer if NO if you want to remotely control the system.
If you dont then what you are asking might work but your old system will get triggered. But you will need to check voltage, duration etc.
FROM GOOGLE:
A door sensor typically outputs a simple binary signal, either “open” or “closed,” meaning its voltage output will be either high (when the door is open) or low (when closed), while a motion sensor outputs a voltage pulse only when movement is detected, usually with a brief high voltage spike followed by a return to low voltage when no motion is present; essentially, a door sensor provides a sustained state change while a motion sensor gives a momentary signal upon detecting movement.
Key points about the difference:
Door sensors provide a sustained state (open or closed), whereas motion sensors provide a momentary pulse when motion is detected.
Door sensors are primarily used to monitor the status of a door (open or closed), while motion sensors are designed to detect movement within a specific area.
Both types of sensors generally output low voltage signals (like 3.3V or 5V), but the key difference lies in the duration of the high voltage state.
Relay setup is easy and always works. In case you are running short on zones on old board I have dealt with this. In your other question I answered for Keyswitch functionality. Your old system has it. But you’ll need installer code to access programming. Usually installer leaves it at default value.
Thank you both.
My question here did not refer to a keyswitch to arm and disarm the old alarm system but to trigger the alarm of the old system for example when a zigbee door sensor is triggered which is neither connected to the old alarm system nor to any konnected panels. When the zigbee sensor is triggered I could use home assistant to switch one of the outputs of the konnected alarm panel pro which could turn on the alarm siren of the old alarm system by means of the relay on the interface panel.
I wonder if I could spare a zone of the old system (when I configure a keyswitch to arm/disarm I have no unused zones left).
Would it work if I connect a 3.3V output of the konnected alarm panel pro as a momentary button to switch a NO-relay of an interface panel and connect this relay additionally to a used zone of the old alarm system to which a motion sensor is connected? When this motion sensor is triggered the old system will turn on sirens and flashlights.
Can I simulate the triggering of this motion sensor using the method described above without damaging the old mainboard?
Thanks and kind regards
Alex
For : Can I simulate the triggering of this motion sensor using the method described above without damaging the old mainboard?
I think it should work but have never done it. Logically it should. Just check voltage ratings /ground.
For: I wonder if I could spare a zone of the old system (when I configure a keyswitch to arm/disarm I have no unused zones left)
Yes you can. I did it. You will either move the programming from old control panel for the zone. Or Program it to bypass it all the time. When testing bypass the zone temporarily.
But when I look at your answer and see mention of zigbee sensor - If i was in your place I would just connect zigbee directly to Konnected Pro panel (not interface panels) to the zone number that is vacant. Konnected gets the signal when door opens and then sends signal to old system to sound the alarm. Its easier and less programming. I hope I understood what you were asking.
FYI - I moved one of the motion sensors from old system completely to Pro panel. Now, old system does not know about that. I had 8 zone system and no zones left for keyswitch. You just cant move wireless sensors to Konnected. I left that zone alone. Pro Panel has 12 zones so I still have few zones left on Pro panel to add more sensors if need be.
Thanks
Hello,
when I wrote spare a zone I actually meant save a zone, sorry.
Zigbee is a wireless network, I think you cannot connect these sensors directly to a konnected board.
I do not know if you can use the zones on the alarm panel pro and on the interface panels at the same time. I did not see in the konnected app if this is possible.
I would also prefer if I could activate something like a panic alarm by triggering a used zone on the old alarm system so I could make the siren sound even if the old system is not armed.
Thanks and kind regards
Alex
For: Zigbee is a wireless network, I think you cannot connect these sensors directly to a konnected board.
No, you cant.
For: I do not know if you can use the zones on the alarm panel pro and on the interface panels at the same time. I did not see in the konnected app if this is possible.
Yes, you can, working for me. Confirmed with konnected support and then implemented. Just take care of which zone to connect to. You can look in Konencted app. Zones are numbered and then look at Pro panel, you will figure out.
For:I would also prefer if I could activate something like a panic alarm by triggering a used zone on the old alarm system so I could make the siren sound even if the old system is not armed.
You can do this using ALARM input. See pic attached. Basically you are just sending voltage to SIREN to make sound.
Ok, I will check this, thank you.
The advantage of triggering a wired zone of the old alarm system would be that the internal siren and the flashlight would also be activated and that I could end the alarm using the keypads and remote control of the old system like it was triggered by the wired sensor itself.
I just would have to change the mode of that zone from normal alarm to panic alarm so that it can also be triggered when the system is disarmed.
Kind regards
Alex
Yes, you are correct. There is definite benefit. Le me check tomorrow what happens when I sound alarm. I tried it only once and turned off over phone. Dont have flash lights and did not see old panels at that time. If it somehow triggers old system that would be bonus for me 
That would be great.
In my system there has to be a 4.7 kohms resistor in parallel to the zone and ground terminals.
Does this mean I must also put such an additional resistor in parallel to the relay contacts if want to trigger the alarm by connecting the relay to a used zone in addition?
Kind regards
Alex
Yes, I guess you do. If you dont have extra resistor then take it from some other zone and bypass that zone for duration of your set up. First connect with resistor and then without just to make sure that you really need it. When you say parallel or series resistor here is the logic from Google AI result (Read the last point, you may already know but I didnt earlier so posting):
In a security system, resistors, specifically referred to as “End-of-Line (EOL) resistors,” are used to monitor the integrity of the wiring in a security zone, allowing the control panel to detect if a wire is cut, tampered with, or damaged, essentially providing supervision over the entire security circuit and preventing false alarms by confirming the sensor is still connected and functioning properly.
Key points about resistors in security systems:
By placing a resistor at the end of a security zone’s wiring, the system can constantly check the resistance level and identify any changes that might indicate a broken wire or tampering.
If a wire is cut or shorted, the resistance value will change significantly, alerting the control panel to a potential problem.
EOL resistors help to ensure that the alarm is only triggered when a sensor is actually activated and not due to faulty wiring.
Depending on the type of sensor (like a door contact), the resistor might be placed in a series with a normally closed circuit or parallel with a normally open circuit.
Hi again,
I am getting seriously disappointed with this device.
I spent the whole weekend preparing, routing an ethernet cable, wiring, mounting the boards a. s. o., and after all this I am not even getting the basic functions working.
My motion sensors - which are the only sensors wired to the old system - have dual end of line resistors, 2 x 4,7 kOhms. The interface board does not turn on its leds as soon as I connect the zones of the motion sensors. I can turn the screws on the interface boards as long as I want - the leds remain off and no motion is recognized although the old system and the motion sensors are working properly.
I have checked several times that it is said that you do not need to remove the resistors from the motion sensors when using the interface boards with an interface kit (which is what I want). But it does not work. And if I remove the resistors my old alarm system will probably not work as intended anymore.
I must say that so far I am not satisfied with the konnected system at all, especially for that price.
My other esp home devices which I mostly put up myself did cost a fraction of that (all together!) and are working properly. After I changed the firmware from wifi to ethernet (yes, the matching ethernet version) using the konnected app, the board is not recognized in home assistant anymore.
If I buy a system that has already been developed for a couple of years I would expect it to work as announced without forcing the customer to do a lot of trial and error without any positive result.
Sorry, but I am already investigating for weeks on how to connect this properly to my old system and I have spent dozens of hours by now. This weekend I thought I could finally manage to get this working but unfortunately I did not and I do not see that I made any kind of mistake.
Just a side notice: I connected poe together with 12V from the old alarm system (the manual says you can do this) and the poe led on my TP-Link TL-SG1005P poe switch is blinking green wich means “Current-overload/Short-circuit”. The led did not flash before I connected the additional power wires from the old alarm system.
I hope that in the end there will at least be a solution for all these issues.
Kind regards
Alex
Hey Alex - I am with you. There are nuances I had to face as a customer like you.
My finding was product is good but lacks documentation and support as we the customers dont work with security systems everyday. I will try to answer if I can based on your comments. One thing I will say - to set up this system - take a small win everyday and spend little time everyday. I’ll move over to your comments, probably I can suggest few things.
Hey Parv (I hope this is correct),
I appreciate your help very much, you are a very kind person.
My motion sensors are these: https://library.e.abb.com/public/5e59122…0D0101.pdf
There is one 4,7 kOhms resistor between TAMP ant TEST and one between TAMP and ALM. Wires are connected to +, -, ALM, CTRL and AUX/FAULT.
I cannot always reply as fast as you do, sorry for that. That does not mean I am not thankful for your help. We are probaly living in different time zones apart from that.
Kind regards
Alex
For brevity of message:
Hi,
I admire your patience. I cannot try other sensors as I only have motion sensors wired to the old system.
Inverting the sensors in the firmware (I am at version 13 now) did not help, the state just changed and stayed like this.
On the web page there are some sensors shown as ON and others as OFF but they do not change although my old system is detecting motion.
No worries about responses… I am just active doing other work on laptop these days. Some days I am just under the rock.
If I were you, I will not change resistor set up on my old board to make this work. Because we need out old board working. If Konnected does not work, I would probably buy a new board with wifi and remote management features (I dont know, I have not researched) because Konnected is to add those features and its always better to have base system with max features.
Thanks
I have been thinking of making my old system smart and integrating it with home assistant a few years now and I hoped to have found a solution with konnected.
If I knew about all the problems before I would probably never have bought it. But now I do not want to give up trying to get it working.
With kids at home you learn patience
Anyway, did you try connecting motion sensor to other interface board. I guess you have 2 (if you brought Pro panel interface kit).
Also check connections between interface board any Konnected main panel - asking because you only have motion sensors and none of them have worked for you till now.
If nothing works then - I would talk to AI and then ask it to connect to human. Then ask if Konnected system work with your old security panel or not. They should know.
I have already asked the support but they say they do not have enough manpower to provide help with my old alarm system.
Not quite the answer I would have expected.
I will double check the ribbon cables and other connections tomorrow and also try using the second Interface board.
