Has anyone come up with a long term resolve here?
My sensors work fine for awhile, then one will get stuck open, then another...
Eventually I wipe everything out on the hub and start over only to go through the same thing a few days later.
This is not what I signed up for, and with 20 zones, I'm losing hope of a solution that is tenable.
Brett
I have been struggling with this for awhile now. I flashed my wifi modules and updated the code in SmartThings IDe and tried to get my sensors working again. I couldn't seem to get them working again after trying on and off for months (a couple hours at a time).
Eventually, I discovered the the link in SmartThings IDE to my GITHUB seemed to keep overriding the code I had updated. It seemed to keep bringing in the old code and I also couldn't seem to get the updated one from Repo.
Once I unlinked my GITHUB account in SmartThings IDE, and manually updated the code for SmartApps and Device Handlers, I finally was able to get my system back up and running. Hope this is able to help someone who has been in the same boat as me (without a security system for about seven months).
This is an old thread, but I wanted to add my experience since I had the identical problem. I pulled the wires for the sensors out of the door frames, searched for the source wire and all had a resister in series. I removed the resistor and now my door sensors work exactly as expected. I am using the latest version of the Konnected Alarm Panel (V2). By the way, others have commented that the resistor is used to enable wire tampering detection. OK, but seriously? To tamper with my wires someone has to break into my walls and find the wire. I doubt anyone will care to do that when they can just smash down my door and storm in if they really want to get me. And so what if they did manage to find the wires in my walls? My cameras would catch them. I cannot fathom the logic for why wire tampers are needed, unless you are a bank. Even then, redundant systems (like cameras) are all you need.
Everyone’s circumstances are different. For many homes here in Australia, gaining access to the roof cavity in older homes is pretty trivial - just lift a few roof tiles and you’re in. Most people’s sensor wires run up the walls into the roof cavity where they all lead back to the alarm panel. So tampering then becomes easy without resistors. It’s not just door sensors we’re talking about, it’s also PIR sensors. Is this likely to happen for the average Joe by the average thief? Definitely not. But getting broken into is also stastically unlikely, we prepare for the worst nevertheless. And any alarm system is better than no alarm for sure. But people should be aware of the risks with using this product, especially those who may be trying to save money in starting a small business for example. Some people might be under the impression that it is a complete replacement for their old alarm system with the same level of security.
Also, cameras aren’t going to prevent someone wearing a mask from entering since they can’t be indentified. Cameras are a great supplement but not a backup replacement for an alarm system. Cameras can tell you what happened, but it can’t stop it from happening. For example if someone learns that you will be away for 2 weeks, they know they have that long before you’ll get around to seeing their masked face on camera.
Jock, good points and you are right: people should be fully aware of the system's capabilities. For my use case, the chances of anyone getting to the sensor wires, or even finding them since they are in the walls, is about the chance of being hit by a lightening. A determined and professional thief I am sure has the capability to do it, but that professional thief will also likely have a way to disable the alarm without even bothering with finding the wires. Cutting my Internet connection would be all that is needed to effectively disable the system.
My goal for my system is not to build a fortress that no professional can penetrate, but to provide protection from the teenager or drug addict who is just looking for a quick smash a grab. My neighborhood is gated and very safe anyway, and it is very rare for any house to be broken in to. For me it is just extra piece of mind. And I want a system that automatically calls for help in case there is a break-in or even more importantly a fire.
By the way, I was just using cameras as an example of redundant systems you can put in place to protect the wires since there is no tamper protection. You can put a camera in your attic and set up motion triggers so that if it detects any movement (like someone lifting off a roof tile), it sets off your alarm. Or you could put a motion sensor in your attic as well.
One more point and then I will let this go. Everyone should be aware that the Konnected alarm panel uses WiFi to communicate with your hub (like Hubitat), or Smart Things which also requires an Internet connection. All a professional needs to do is block your WiFi signal and then there is no way for the panel to communicate that a door or window has been opened. So really the tamper protection issue is not significant. If you want something that will protect you against a professional, this is not the solution you should be considering as your primary security system. As others have stated, for those people who want that level of protection, it is a good system to integrate into your home automation hub as an additional capability, not as a replacement for security. For me, it covers my use case and I am fully comfortable with using it as my primary security system.
Hello everyone. So I purchased a home about 2 yrs ago that already had a couple of 6 zone boards. About a year ago I started having trouble with a door & window contact sensor that is wired to one zone. I think I fiddled with the terminal block and got it to work again. Well recently when switching from STH => Habitat I had to setup the Konnected system again. Again that same zone is not working and I'm having trouble isolating the issue.
While I've read many mention the inline resistors I have to think they are removed at this point since it was working fine for quiet some time. I used a multimeter to measure for continuity and can see continuity when door & window are closed. I even tried splitting up the linked sensors to no avail. At this point all but this zone are working well so I almost thought it was just that zone that died on the board. However when testing in continuity mode I noticed I can get the konnected board to update status correctly. But when trying to trigger manually (by adding/removing the raw cables on a closed loop) I don't get any activity (blue light flashing). It's a little frustrating because the sensors seem to be working ok in isolation, and the board seems to be working ok in isolation, but together the board just won't read the sensor. Any tips for further testing would be greatly appreciated.