UK siren options?

I am getting my Konnected all set up for installation in my house during renovations I’m doing. But I’m struggling to find decent sirens for use internally and externally. I want one internal and one external. I’m in the UK. It seems from all the usual suspects (Screwfix, Toolstation, CEF, other electrical wholesalers, etc) that they only seem to do smart alarm sirens these days. I just want simple ones that run on 12 VDC!

Does anyone here have suggestions and/or links by any chance? Much appreciated in advance!

My favorite simple and inexpensive siren is the Honeywell/Residio WAVE2. We sell them currently for $19: Honeywell WAVE2 Two-Tone Siren – Konnected. We ship worldwide, and shipping to the UK is cheaper than you might expect.

The DSC SD-20 is also a good choice for a louder external/attic siren.

I see you can also get the WAVE2 on, albeit for quite a markup.

Many thanks for the info @nate!

I managed to find some options here that look good. I’ve ordered the following:

External siren: Pyronix Deltabell E.

It looks like from this, I’ll be able to hook up +/- 12V to the AUX +/- on Konnected Pro, and then the BELL to ALARM1-. I could hook up the strobe in parallel to that I assume, so also connect STB to ALARM1-. Current is <250mA rated. So seems perfect.

Then for internal siren I’ve got 2 on order. The Pyronix Twin Alert ( Sorry, this page has Restricted Access | Pyronix ) and Kinetic Sound Bomb 2 ( can’t send link for this as this post is over my max of 2 links as a new user! ). These are 160mA and 125mA respectively. So well within range here for me.

The Twin Alert I would wire the +/- 12V to AUX +/- on Konnected Pro. And then BA to ALARM2-. I was hoping to also use SPK on this, but I guess I’m out of suitable outputs on Konnected Pro.

On the Sound Bomb 2, I can’t find a wiring diagram, but if I opt for this instead I imagine it’s going to be the same as the Twin Alert wiring.

Does this all sound about right @nate? And do you see any option for me to use the SPK on that Twin Alert without getting another Konnected board?

Looks like the Deltabell E should work fine! Apparently its default is switched negative which is also how the Konnected Alarm outputs work, so yes it should be wired as you described as far as I can tell.

I couldn’t access the install manual for the Twin Alert (login required page). Can you attach that?

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Thanks so much @nate! I can’t seem to upload and attach the PDF here, because it says I’m too new a user to do that.

I think this link will work though without login (it’s from some random shop that sells them!):

Yes, that link worked. Also I updated your member trust level so you should be able to upload attachments now.

I guess I’m not clear what the SPK function is, separate from the siren? What’s the use case for separate connections?

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Many thanks for raising my trust level!

I believe, but could be wrong, that SPK is a quieter noise that you can use to make tones like you would when you want to alert people that the alarm is arming so please leave the building. Or when you enter to alert that the alarm is armed and will go off in a few seconds so please disarm it.

Right now I’ve got my electrician to wire up a 4-core alarm cable to where I’m going to mount a tablet that will be where people arm/disarm the alarm (through Home Assistant). I was going to use that to put the piezo buzzer that comes with the Konnected kit. (I know I only need 2 wires, but hey, might as well wire a 4-core right!). But if I could use this SPK function of the twin alert thing, I figured that might be neater.

But IIUC, this twin alert would require me wiring to one of the ALARM outputs on the Konnected? And then I’d need 3 if so, as 2 for this twin alert thing, and 1 for the outdoor siren. Do you agree with my assessment there? Or is there some way to have one of the OUT or zones of Konnected do the right kind of switching here?

Many thanks for all your help @nate - this is amazing support! I’m really liking Konnected. I’ve got a keypad all set up with it and working through HA. I think this is amazing kit!

I guess I’m not really clear on what type of output the SPK terminal requires. It seems to me like this is expecting some kind of analog signal that is amplified through the speaker. Unfortunately Konnected doesn’t do that, it only turns on/off voltage to trigger a siren with an internal driver/modulator.

It’s pretty clear that you should be able to use the siren function of the Twin Alert by connecting the BA terminal to either ALRM1- or ALRM2- on the Konnected Pro. You could use the other ALRM output for the outside siren (if you want them switched independently) or just double them up on the same trigger if you want them sounding at the same time.

Ah right yes I see what you’re thinking. As I understand it, it’s not really a “speaker”, but rather just the piezo goes on a quieter volume. I don’t know for sure though. I will get the device in about 30 minutes, so I’ll be able to have a play over the weekend.

Oh that’s a great idea about doubling up the sirens! I hadn’t thought of that! And you think I could have the strobe from the outside siren on the same one as well right? I guess with all of this, the current is pulled through the AUX +/- anyway, and those are presumably very much rated to draw the full current that’s possible on the board?

It all arrived! Maybe this thing is actually a speaker then… Here’s some images of the board inside the twin alert sounder:

(Apologies for cutting off the terminal block names - but it’s, from the top, 12V+, 12V-, SPK, BA, T, T)

My electronics is very rusty, but that looks like a lot more than just modulating down the volume for SPK output.

I’ve shot an email across to the company too, to see what they say.

I’m wondering now if this is going to be a better option:

It looks like it’s got triggering for a high volume sound I can use as the siren, and a low volume sound I can use for exit/entry alerts.

So I’ve been testing out all the sirens I bought. The sound bomb thing is perfect - it’s just a piezo so just connect red to +12V and black to ALARM1/2.

The twin alert thing - yep doesn’t work on the speaker input. I just hear a tiny click when I turn off the alarm output it’s connected to - which makes sense.

I’m now on the Pyronix Deltabell E. Getting the hang of it, but @nate I wondered if you could help with something. When I connect up the strobe input, I see the red light on the Konnected Pro board for whatever output it’s connected to. So I had the bell input connected to ALARM1 and strobe input connected to ALARM2. Everything works in that if I trigger ALARM1 then the sounder sounds, and if I trigger ALARM2 then the strobe goes on. But it seems odd to me that the red LED on the board is lit for the strobe input. I measured voltage across the strobe input and 0V, and it was reading about 7.2V. Is that why it’s showing the LED as on because there’s enough PD for the board to think it’s on? I kinda assumed that the board would only show the LED if the trigger is actually on as per what I’ve got set in Home Assistant.

I also measured 0V to the siren input, and it was ~12V. I was hoping to connect the siren and strobe in parallel, so I’m a little concerned by the voltage difference, because then I’ll have a short between strobe and siren, meaning that ~7V and ~12V will be connected. Is that going to be OK?

I’m not really sure why you would be seeing voltage across the STB or BELL inputs. It seems like this Deltabell gets consistent power from the AUX so there may be some sort of circuit that is supervising the inputs.

I don’t think it should be a problem to use the same output for those inputs, as they will have a common ground. But honestly I am not sure.

That’s right on the power coming from aux constant supply. There are 12V and 0V connections too. That’s how all sirens are in the UK from what I’ve found in my research. For this one, it powers for example the flashing LEDs that go constantly to warn people that the alarm is operational. And also there is an onboard battery that would trigger the siren to go off if the box detects that power supply has gone (indicating someone might have cut power to turn off the alarm at the property!)

Yep it’s a bit odd that these inputs float at these voltages. Things did all work fine though - just that LED stayed on. I’ll see how I get on when I wire everything up all together.

Thanks for all your help @nate!

Good to hear you got this going, I posted some info on my set up in the UK on here, I actually went a different route and used 12v relays to trigger internal and external sirens and the strobe. The reason being around the fact the external sounder is negative switched, as is the tamper.