Any help in the NX8 type panels have programable outputs? I know how to make one zone a keyswith type but not if programable outputs possible. Thanks
Hi Ron,
I just rec’d an email regarding your ask from the thread " NetworX (DAS) NX-4, how to connect alarm trigger for remote notification?"
I can’t seem to locate your actual reply, but would like to try to help.
three things to check -
#1, you need to add a EOL resistor in parallel across the keyswitch zone you set up.
#2 - sorry for restating the obvious, but please confirm you wired the zone across the Konnected relay and not the monitoring ports.
#3 - Activate the Konnected relay momentarily - like a button push vs. a switch. I’m using Home Assistant to activate and have an option to specify duration, I set for 500 ms (1/2 second). You short momentarily - if it were a physical keyswitch, you would turn it, but then turn the key back to pull it out.
One last item to consider (after you get it working), there is an advanced option to ensure the keyswitch “force arms” even if a zone is open. Location 41, bit 5. (BE SURE TO VERIFY same location for your system)
Something to consider changing. If you need to arm the system while you’re out of the house, you have no way of closing a window or door that may be left open. Force arming allows you to do this, regardless.
good luck
Thanks for the reply.
Thanks for the info on keyswitch (my zone 8) needing the resistor. Now when I momentarily short the terminals, the NX-8 arms or disarms. But I still can’t get any remote arming through my Smartthings app which I am using. Maybe I should change to Home Assistant. Do I need to purchase a hub? Konnected has had lots of problems with getting Smartthings to work with Android, which I use. After my purchase it was about a month before they got the Smartthings engineers to find the problem, so it has kept me unimpressed with these devices. If I knew all the hours and days I would spend trying to get everything working I would have gone a different direction in my automation quest. Anyways I programmed all the locations as you laid out in your Nov 2022 post. I wired the keyswitch to the 2 relay terminals of my Interface board #2, and jumper on NO (not sure where the monitoring ports are). The IN terminal is tied to output 2 of the Pro panel. Not sure if it’s a problem but I have 2 LED zones (2 and 6) on this #2 interface board which are not affected (on or off) by the adjustment screw. All others adjust correctly. Like I said, I followed all your recommendations so I’m not sure what to do next. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Guess first thing I have to do is go back and install Build 1 of the firmware. Today I saw Build 2 come out and Flashed the board. Now I have no communications with the Konnected app. Comms good with Build 1 ( at least hardwired, wifi has never worked). Thanks for being there.
I have an NX-12, and the keyswitch works. As Troisonca mentions, if it is configured for double-zoning, then you need the resistor. You also need to program the alarm so that it knows that zone is used as keyswitch. In SmartThings, set it up as momentary switch. Use a delay of 1000ms if you want it to put it in ‘away’ mode. 500ms is for ‘stay’ mode.
Thanks, I can arm through the Smartthings app and receive an intrusion alert on the app if a zone is tripped (no siren). This may be a stupid question: when arming from the app will my NX-8 keypad also show armed. It does not. Is this normal?
In theory, your alarmpad should show it is armed, if your alarm is configured correctly. Your alarm is supposed to send events to the keypad to inform it of the status.
As for the intrusion alert: I am using one of the programmable AUX ports on the alarm to send a signal to one of the zones on Konnected about the alarm being triggered. On my alarm that is event 46. I then set up an alert in SmartThings. I am using another programmable AUX port to tell me the armed status of the alarm.
I am using an app called “AlertMe” to play an audio sound when SmartThings triggers a notification for that zone (the sound will be played no matter what - even if on Do Not Disturb or if volume is off). That way I always get notified. It is very straightforward to use and ‘just works’ reliably. I had tried using Tasker, but just couldn’t get it working right.
I have my keyswitch on zone 8, with resistor in parallel, if I momentarily short with jumper wire across it the keypad and panel arm, and short again the panel disarms. Likewise monmentary short across interface board arms and disarm panel, but not when using smart things and tapping keyswitch symbol. (smartthings keyswich tapping does go on and off). I made sure IN from interface board is going to OUTon Panel Pro board. I have programed my NX-8 as referenced by trolsonca, events 45 through 50.
I guess I’m at a loss on what to do next.
Andy helped with setup. Make OUT2 a momentary switch just like you have zone 8 setup. Make sure you have the physical switch moved to OUT2. Now when I tap ST Arm,Disarm output 2 the panel keypad arms amd disarms. Still working on alarm status on the ST app.
Hi Ron
Congrats on getting keyswitch to work;
Jaydee thanks for also weighing in on this
Sorry - I haven’t been getting notices that you replied.
Nothing to add, other than a digression on discussing Home Assistant since you asked about HA vs SmartThings
When I reviewed the various options for mobile automation apps, I decided to go with HomeAssistant for the flexibility of having many, many tinkerers who are working with HA and creating the needed integrations to so many of the popular systems available.
It does take extra work to get started, but I’ve been super happy with my choice as people have open sourced the HA integrations so I have connected my lights (Leviton), my garage (Genie - very bad experience with Liftmaster), my security cams (BlueIris and Hikvision), water (Flume), electric (Sense) and thermostat (Venstar) - best of all, I use CloudFlare tunnels to access and control everything via the Home Assistant mobile app, very securely and without any subscription fees.
There is a small learning curve, and yes, you do need to set up a Raspberry Pi hub, but HA has made this really easy to do.
I would say this - when I decided to go HA, I knew I could always go back to an established commercial platform if I had to; so trying out HA was quick and had little downside other than buying an RPi and investing a weekend of my time. I was immediately hooked on the flexibility to access advanced features the commercial providers may not have time for…most of the HA integration owners are very technical and include those functions in their integrations because they want the access.
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