GDO blaQ - sometimes garage door will not move when commanded

Konnected Garage Door Opener
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Thanks for the picture. That one is newer and I thought I read a forum post somewhere saying the hardware revision happened in 2017 but I can’t find that post right now.

Today the push the bar message appeared as was standing next to the wall controller about to hit the button to open—but I hadn’t touched anything. It seemed like the wall panel motion detection triggered and that caused the panel to go into the push the bar state.

I wonder if panel motion detection is the nibble=5 message mentioned earlier in this thread.

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@nate do you need anymore information logs etc.?

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Ok @Oral_Allen and others – I just pushed version 0.3.0 which I hope will fix this for good. I think the problem is related to motion sensor events from the 880LM(W) wall button. I’ve ordered one of these buttons to test with, but it’s not in yet. However, thanks to your logs the problem seems to associate with motion events received, then the device’s rolling code gets out of sync.

We don’t have any problems like this at all on our test devices (that don’t have motion sensors) so that points to the motion sensor as the difference that’s problematic.

The proposed fix will ensure that the device syncs status with the garage opener after every motion event.

Please update and let me know how that goes!

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I’ll try that now.

I also think I’ve resolved my “push the bar” issue. I got a new 880LM manufactured in 2024 and I’ve replaced my one that was manufactured in 2014. I believe the older firmware had an issue where insufficient power supplied to the button due to a long wire run from the opener would cause the device to reboot into the “push the bar” failure state. By putting a blaQ in parallel with my wall remote I’m guessing it put enough resistive load into the circuit to cause power to drop often enough that my wall controller reset itself. That’s a lot of guessing but it has been a few days with the new 880LM and it hasn’t gone into “push the bar”.

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Initial testing is going well. I deliberately only installed it on one of my devices and I tested the one with the new update and every attempt worked the other garage door with the older firmware didn’t work as I expected. I installed the new firmware on that device and no issues so far. Great job @nate

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Nate, would possibly using one of the other wiring hookups in the initial PDF create a situation that could test his hypothesis?

Buying a new one simply won’t be an appropriate answer to some (even if this isn’t affecting me personally)…so trying to find a fix for older & less reliable may be desired if you can…

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actually scelfo, can you whip up a 5 ft wire and test the old one with the old firmware? (aka, artificially create a super low resistive load scenario) if you did see the length of cable making a difference, that be a huge data point to establish…

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and taking the speculation to the furthest point, maybe surgery on the old button to swap a capacitor is all that is needed, if indeed the button power just drops too low…

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Both of these ideas make sense (test a short cable run, a long run, and a capacitor).

@nate, how about I mail you the older wall controller and you guys try these ideas so you can hopefully reproduce problems first hand? Send me a DM and we can make that happen.

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IMG_0931
IMG_09312856×2142 1.23 MB

IMG_0930
IMG_09302142×2856 1.28 MB

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i’d love to see a side by side of the actual boards underneath, but thinking this through, maybe they had a round of bad capacitors during certain production years that could be the only “actual” difference between them ???

The fact that EVERYTHING, even the number in corner (furthest from patent info), is identical SHOULD mean it’s exactly the same part to every bit…

(unless they mimicked GM’s ignition part number reuse failure from over a decade ago:
https://gmauthority.com/blog/2014/03/ignition-switch-part-number-causes-new-headache-for-general-motors/amp/ )

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Look at the circuit boards (bottom left). There is a different number etched on the boards. Looks like a rev B and rev C

I’ll pop the back plate off and take pictures when I replace my other wall controller this week.

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Glad to hear that the latest firmware update has fixed the issue with open/close commands getting missed! I think we solved it by more aggressively syncing the rolling code on motion events. I’m calling this one done!

Regarding the older wall-button and “push bar” message – if the solution as @scelfo found is to simply replace the button with a newer mfg date, then that’s probably the best we’re gonna get. To be honest, I’m not really too motivated to spend time on working around an issue with a 10 year old piece of equipment if a newer one resolves the problem.

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I’ve closed the door a few times via blaQ and it has worked. I’m feeling good about the fix, glad you guys got it sorted out.

I also support the idea of telling people to buy a new wall controller if they have problems with “push the bar”. You’ve got a niche product and sometimes you need to draw a line on support. A new wall controller is cheaper than blaQ.

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